Vitamin ski: Why the French resort of Meribel is the ultimate Alpine playground

The chairlift gently swings into the station as we thrust the lap bar up and shuffle forward in our seats, eager to soak up the next instalment in what has been a series of picture-perfect panoramas. And, as my skis sink into the snow and I slip away from the revellers assembled at the top of the lift, I’m not disappointed. 

Across the valley, thickets of fir trees, their branches weighed down with snow, give way to perfectly white peaks that reach up into the bright blue sky. These are conditions every skier dreams of – a covering of velvety powder blankets the mountain, almost calling out to be carved into, while the sun’s rays glisten against the fresh flakes.

Below, throngs of skiers and snowboarders glide elegantly down the piste, weaving around each other in perfect harmony. From my vantage point, they’re so small they appear more like colourful flecks on a pristine white canvas, leaving behind a collection of intertwining tracks in the powder as they go.

This is my happy place – but more specifically, this is Meribel, centrepiece of the French Alps’ world-famous ski area The Three Valleys. Meribel is spread across a handful of villages at varying altitudes, the main one being Meribel Centre. It’s the gateway to the resort’s sprawling 93-mile-long network of pistes and home to the majority of its hotels, shops and restaurants – with plenty on offer to satiate luxury travellers’ appetite for Alpine adventures. 

High-end hotspots

The resort’s most esteemed address, Hôtel Le Coucou (Hotel low-down, page 91), can be found nestled among a smattering of chalets a little way up the mountain from the centre of Meribel. 

It’s perfectly poised on the side of the piste for ski-in ski-out access from the most lavish boot room I’ve ever seen, and when it’s time to leave the skis behind and venture into Meribel Centre, there’s a complimentary, on-call shuttle service to ferry guests around.

Here in the heart of the resort, visitors will also find two further high-end addresses: adjoining sister properties Hôtel Le Kaïla and Hôtel La Chaudanne. Situated on one of Meribel’s liveliest streets and surrounded by bars, restaurants and boutiques, these two hotels offer easy access to the resort’s activities. Of course, getting out onto the slopes is of paramount importance to most guests here, and Le Kaïla and La Chaudanne come equipped with a private lift that whisks them directly to the top of the piste. 

Le Kaïla is a slightly more upmarket offering, boasting 43 rooms and suites, including a top-floor option with its own Jacuzzi and hammam; chalet-inspired decor combining wooden panels, warm tones and soft materials; and L’Ekrin, the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Meribel.

Next door, La Chaudanne feels more premium than luxury, but is no less cosy than its sister. It’s home to 63 Alpine-inspired rooms, a tranquil spa and brasserie Le 80, where I decide it would be rude not to devour the most delicious cheese fondue I’ve ever had.

Although some may say Meribel is more limited in terms of its luxury product compared with neighbouring Courchevel, it’s the charming, friendly nature evident across the resort that really sets it apart. 

Le Coucou, Le Kaïla and La Chaudanne can’t be faulted in terms of service – when Meribel does luxury, it does it well. What’s more, Courchevel and its selection of Michelin-starred eateries and designer boutiques are just a simple ski away.