Tale of two cities: The eternal appeal of Athens

What’s new

While most guests will likely focus their sightseeing on the city’s landmarks of antiquity – which are, quite literally, around every corner – Athens is a buzzing, modern and sprawling city. What’s more, it’s been reinventing itself for centuries. On the accommodation front, the newest and most glittering option is Grecotel’s The Dolli, which opened in 2023. Also new is One&Only Aesthesis, located a few miles south in Glyfada on the Athenian Riviera. The Ellinikon development is one to watch. This giant regeneration project on the site of an old airport will transform the area over the next couple of decades. It’s already home to a park, playground, splash area and zipline, but it’s set to gain a marina, beach and thousands of homes, as well as bountiful green space.

When to go

As with most European cities, I would recommend visiting during the shoulder seasons, when conditions are warm and pleasant, but there are fewer crowds to contend with.

Where to stay

The Dolli is the perfect city-centre escape. Its top[1]floor swimming pool and restaurant offer the most incredible views of the Acropolis. Day or night, the vista is breathtaking. Once a grand mansion, this 1925 neoclassical listed building is now home to 46 rooms and suites, all of which are crisp, clean and oozing with class. Guests will feel like a Greek god or goddess, thanks to the double-height ceilings and impressive art and antiques collection. Marriott International’s Luxury Collection boasts two properties in the city – Hotel Grande Bretagne and King George – while Leading Hotels of the World gained a member at the end of last year with the opening of Anthology of Athens. On the boutique front, agents can book the trendy Shila or Xenodocheio Milos through Mr & Mrs Smith, while Domes Resorts’ glamping hotel 91 Athens Riviera, The Resort offers guests the chance to stay in a luxury tent.

What to see and do

Athens is very much a tale of two cities. It boasts impressive historical monuments and buildings on almost every street; but it is also extremely rugged and gritty – and it’s this juxtaposition that is a draw for many. So bursting with history is Athens that culture-adoring clients visiting for a long weekend will quickly discover they’ve only scratched the surface, with an abundance of sights to tick off. At the top of any visitor’s list will, no doubt, be the 2,500-year-old Acropolis and the neighbouring Parthenon. Around the corner is the impressive Acropolis Museum, which houses artefacts previously exhibited on top of the ancient hill, while at the foot of the rocky outcrop is Roman conservatory Odeon of Herodes Atticus. The Roman Agora attracts a lot of visitors, and it’s here you’ll also find the Tower of the Winds, an ancient time and weather station that is believed to have been built in the 2nd century BC. The nearby Plaka district is not to be missed. Thought to be one of the world’s oldest continuously inhabited neighbourhoods, it’s home to narrow side streets and lanes lined with crumbling buildings and beautifully restored stately homes, many covered with vibrant draping bougainvillea. Recommend clients head to Syntagma Square, home to the Tomb of the Unknown Soldier and the Hellenic Parliament. Every hour, there is a changing of the guard, with the most impressive display taking place at 11am on Sundays. Fans of Greek mythology should venture slightly farther afield from the city centre to find the Temple of Poseidon, which stands 60 metres above sea level on Cape Sounio.

Pair it with

The options for weaving Athens into a wider itinerary are endless. It’s a brilliant starting point for those taking domestic flights on to lesser‑known islands such as Paros, Chios, Kythira, Icaria or Legos. The city is also the perfect springboard for those embarking on a European cruise, with numerous lines departing from Piraeus – the port for Athens. This year’s sailings include Silversea’s seven‑day Greek odyssey voyage on Silver Muse, which departs on September 6, and Regent Seven Seas Cruises’ 10‑night Icons of Greece itinerary, which sails from Athens to Venice on October 5. For land lovers, recommend a twin‑centre that combines Athens and the Athenian Riviera, which is where wealthy locals head for leisurely weekends by the beach. The 141‑key One&Only Aesthesis, set within 21 hectares of protected forest, is the perfect proposition for affluent clients seeking a relaxing Grecian refuge. The Guerlain spa is exquisite, as is Villa One, the brand’s top‑tier accommodation option.

Foodie favourite

Even clients with just 24 hours in Athens should consider a stop at Ergon House. Located right in the heart of the golden triangle of Monastiraki, Syntagma and the Acropolis, this renowned establishment combines a vast agora (marketplace) of more than 600 artisanal food products (pictured) with a restaurant, fine‑dining spaces, kitchens for cookery classes and contemporary ‘rooms above the inn’. It truly reflects the importance of food in Greek culture, as our group discovered while enjoying a lunch of local delicacies. These were made from seasonal produce – including from Ergon House’s own orchard – and crafted into classic dishes such as Graviera cheese with paprika in kataifi pastry with honey and pistachio nuts; grilled rice‑stuffed vine leaves served with tzatziki, olive oil and lemon sauce; soutzoukakia (spicy meatballs); and chicken breast with oil and lemon sauce. It’s the kind of food you just can’t stop eating – even when you’re full!

Book it: Carrier offers seven nights’ bed and breakfast at The Dolli from £6,165 per person. The price is based on two adults sharing an Athenian Room and includes return flights from Heathrow with British Airways and private transfers.
carrier.co.uk