Review: Sublime Scottish sanctuary Penicuik House

Location: Set at the foot of the beautifully bleak Pentland Hills is Penicuik Estate, a 7,500-acre Scottish sanctuary. Penicuik House, the estate’s new, 16-bedroom exclusive-use property, is a 30-minute drive from both Edinburgh airport and the historic city centre.
 
First impressions: The gates swing open and, as our taxi meanders along the gravel track, dappled light and endless quiet instil an instant calm. When our home for the weekend comes into view, so does the ruin of the old manor (sadly destroyed by fire in 1899), with a columned Palladian facade still bringing a sense of grandeur. The doors of the converted 18th-century stable block open in greeting before we even pull to a stop. The discreet check-in desk is flanked by portraits of the estate’s previous owners, but the atmosphere is far from pretentious. With all 16 rooms a short stroll across the sun-soaked courtyard, Penicuik instantly feels like home.
 
The facts: Penicuik Estate has been in the Clerk family since 1654, but the property entered a new era last year when the first self-catered cottages opened. The estate’s chief executive, Ed Clerk, has ambitions of further restoring the manor, doubling the forest from 1,000 to 2,000 acres and expanding the accommodation offering to 50 keys. The latest stage in this is Penicuik House, which elegantly combines modern comfort and colour with hundreds of paintings and family heirlooms. The 16 playfully designed rooms vary in size and theme, boasting impressive features from four-poster beds and standalone bathtubs to ornate fireplaces and cushioned window seats. Although my room is chilly at times, the bed is deliciously cosy. The rest of the house comprises everything you could want for a relaxing yet elevated getaway, including drawing and sitting rooms with roaring fires, a plush cinema room, a boot room with Le Chameau wellies and Patagonia waterproofs to borrow, an intimate bar serving decadent cocktails such as Douglas fir whisky highballs, and a portrait-lined dining room seating 48.

The Edinburgh Catering Company cooks exclusively for the property and provides breakfast. At an extra cost, the company can organise light bites and snacks, convenient reheatable dishes and private dining experiences. The food and service are exceptional – standouts during my stay include salmon and langoustines cooked on the outdoor grill, venison fillets with girolles and a sloe gin jus, and irresistible canapés. The estate team can also organise activities including gin tasting with local distillery Lind & Lime, cocktail making classes, massages, foraging, outdoor yoga and Pilates.
 
Ideal for: The property’s intimate and sumptuous feel makes it perfect for a countryside wedding, meaningful celebration, fun weekend with friends or family reunion. 
 
Explore: Guests can spend hours wandering or cycling the estate’s wooded paths and gardens, or wild swimming in the high pond. The ruined manor is also open for visits from April to October. Make sure clients greet the resident highland cows mere paces from the front door. The Pentlands are also ripe for exploration – our bracing two-hour hike with guide Richard Edge leaves us more than slightly out of breath, but the views are worth it. With steep and strenuous paths, recommend older guests and young children stick to a gentler route. As the sprawling summit view confirms, Edinburgh is not far away for those wanting a taste of the city. 
 
Wow: The man at the helm, Ed Clerk, is passionate about Penicuik’s every acre and antique, and is happy to lead tours to share his knowledge. After chatting with him and exploring the property’s gems, clients will feel like they’ve stepped into a history book, with any stuffiness they may expect from a country estate replaced by friendly vibes and modern twists.
 
Book it: Two-night minimum stays start from £9,750 per night, including breakfast. 
penicuikestate.com