Review: Remote and wild Reteti House in northern Kenya
Location: Reteti House overlooks dramatic mountain peaks and wide open savannahs from its remote hillside setting in the breathtakingly beautiful Namunyak Conservancy in northern Kenya. The property is a 10-minute drive from the region’s airstrip, which can be reached with a one-hour flight from Nairobi’s Wilson Airport. The conservancy spans more than 1,300 square miles and is a vast tapestry of sun-scorched plains, arid riverbeds and clusters of acacias.
First impressions: We hop from the plane onto the dusty orange airstrip to be greeted by our guide Kalamon Leogusa, who’s not sporting the khakis and beiges usually donned in the bush, but instead a riot of bright pinks and blues adorned with intricately beaded accessories. Namunyak Conservancy is in Samburu County, and seeing Kalamon in traditional dress sets the tone for our stay in the region with safari and conservation specialist Sarara, where Samburu culture isn’t just spotlighted, but celebrated. We jump in our 4x4 vehicle and wind through a series of sandy tracks, occasionally spying jackals sheltering from the sun, before arriving at Reteti House. There is no grand entrance, just a flight of steps set into the hillside, but this is a property that doesn’t need grandeur – it has authenticity and natural beauty by the bucket load. The Samburu staff – helmed by lodge manager, astrologer and all-round fantastic storyteller Tilas Lekango (aka Mr T) – greet us like old friends, and I instantly feel at home.
The facts: Reteti House is one of four Sarara properties spread across Namunyak Conservancy and nearby Samburu National Reserve. It’s available on an exclusive-use basis and can sleep up to 16 guests across four standalone suites, one openplan family room and a new family suite, which comprises two rooms connected by a shared living space. The tented suites can be zipped fully open, so guests can appreciate the bush vistas, and strike a balance between being rustic yet luxurious, with neutral tones and wooden accents, as well as outdoor showers and private terraces. The centrepiece is an open-air lounge and infinity pool from where elephants, leopards and baboons can be viewed at the watering hole below, with the striking peaks of Mathews Range looming in the distance.
Ideal for: Families and groups of friends celebrating a special occasion or seeking a not-so typical safari experience will fall in love with Reteti House. Itineraries can be built around clients’ interests, with one of the main draws being the cultural activities that provide a fascinating window into Samburu life. The pool and living space encourage a slower pace than is found on many safari holidays, with plenty of wildlife to be spotted from the property without having to move a muscle.
Explore: Reteti House’s extraordinary calling card is that it’s just a 10-minute walk from the community-owned Reteti Elephant Sanctuary. Guests staying at any Sarara property can visit the sanctuary, but Reteti House is the only one within easy walking distance, and a sunrise stroll to watch the baby elephants have their 6am feed is simply magical. There’s also plenty more to do in the conservancy, including game drives, bush hikes and visiting schools that are supported by Sarara.
Wow: Seeing the work being done to rehabilitate orphaned elephants is an undeniable wow moment, but the appeal of Reteti House goes even deeper. With their warmth, stories and spirit, the staff at the lodge make this stay one of the most special of my life. It feels wrong to refer to them as staff, because the relationship we build is more like that of friends, which makes it even harder to leave.
Book it: All-inclusive nightly rates start from $7,725 for up to six guests, with additional guests incurring a nightly cost of $1,250 per adult and $640 per child. Prices exclude a $185 per adult per night and $115 per child per night conservancy fee.
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