Review: Dolomites sanctuary Forestis
Location: The hotel’s best asset reveals itself long before we pull into the property. The formidable Dolomites come into view as we weave our way up the hillside, rising like prehistoric teeth from the valley. Situated at a lofty 1,800 metres above sea level, near Brixen in South Tyrol, Forestis is in prime position to offer commanding views of this Unesco World Heritage Site – and every corner of the hotel capitalises on it. Guests can access the property from a number of airports – the closest are Bolzano and Innsbruck, 70 minutes and two hours away respectively by road.
First impressions: Minimalism is instantly apparent as we check in at reception, where wooden coffered ceilings, natural stone and clean, white walls bereft of artwork ensure nothing detracts from the view beyond the windows. One of four spring water wells found across the property provides a trickling soundtrack as we’re presented with warm, rosemary-scented towels and welcome drinks served in sleek slate cups – Alpine syrup and water sourced from the nearby Plose spring. Forestis is famous for its Tower Suites – expansive rooms where floor-to-ceiling glass frames the Dolomites – but nothing could have prepared me for the sight in real life. Being eye-level with the jagged peaks and points of this epic natural wonder never once gets old during our three-night stay. In fact, we sleep with the curtains open, so that the mountains – cast in the pink filter of dawn – are the first thing we see when we wake up.
The facts: Surrounded by dense forest and bordering the Puez-Odle Nature Park, the original building of Forestis was constructed in 1912 as a sanatorium – though the two ensuing world wars meant its intended use never came to fruition. The property opened as a hotel in 2010 under South Tyrolean hotelier Alois Hinteregger and was reimagined as Forestis in 2020 by Alois’ son, Stefan, and his partner Teresa Unterthiner, becoming a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World soon after. A total of three rooms and 62 suites are spread across the original listed building and three contemporary wooden towers.
The property’s old and new wings give guests a choice of aesthetics – though it’s undoubtedly the hotel’s Tower Suites that have people clamouring for a stay here. Clad in fragrant spruce wood, each suite features a walk-in wardrobe and sizeable terrace, where a daybed can be made up for the night during the summer months. A large bathroom, stocked with the hotel’s own plant-based product line, boasts a bath and rain shower, through which in-house spring water flows.
Everything at Forestis is positioned towards the mountain massifs – from the south-facing orientation of all suites to the terraced design of the main restaurant, where each individual booth looks towards panoramic windows. The Dolomites preside over the modern gym, rooftopbar and sunny garden terrace.
And then there’s the spa – a wondrous, two-storey haven with a show-stopping heated indoor/outdoor pool, where guests can gaze at the mountains from their steamy, snowy surrounds. The spa takes its sauna game very seriously, with five at varying temperatures to choose from and a guided twice-daily ‘sauna ritual’. When it comes time to refuel, the main restaurant serves a knockout breakfast and an à la carte and tasting menu in the evening. Guests can also dine at the allday bar and lounge or new eatery Yera.
Ideal for: Skiers, mountain lovers, nature enthusiasts and wellness seekers will no doubt already have Forestis high on their list – and it doesn’t disappoint.
Explore: Forestis is ski-in ski-out during the winter months, connecting guests with 28 miles of blue, red and black runs in the nearby Plose ski area. In the summer, visitors can enjoy hiking trails and biking routes, with guides available on request. Forestis also runs an impressive weekly schedule of activities, including Pilates classes, mountain tours, sound healing, fire meditation and wine tasting.
Wow: Forestis’s new culinary offering, Yera, is an immersive dining experience unlike anything I’ve encountered before. Carved into the hillside opposite the hotel, this 18-seat ‘cave’ restaurant centres around a communal fire pit and celebrates ‘forest cuisine’, with a four-hour, fixed menu drawing on ancient Celtic traditions such as fire cooking, fermentation and foraged ingredients for a multi-course meal that feels at once primitive and wholly progressive. It’s theatrical from the start, with details kept sparse for intrigue. Guests are presented with a wax-sealed invitation at breakfast and, come evening, are led along a woodland path to the restaurant by a cloaked member of staff holding a flaming torch. I won’t give away what happens inside – but the €650 per person price tag is, in my opinion, absolutely worth the splurge.
Book it: Nightly rates start from £648 for a room and £951 for a Tower Suite, both on a B&B basis.
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