Idyllic beauty, high-octane activities and joyous spirt combine across this 40-island archipelago
White wisps of cloud fleck the sky, an almost-perfect aquamarine canvas where the sun, a gleaming tangerine disc perched high above, takes centre stage. The rays beam down, throwing dappled light across the terrace, where a table is bestowed with a lavish lunchtime spread. Platters of fresh seafood and rainbow-coloured salads are delivered by waiters floating around us in total harmony, a feast complemented by glasses of chilled rosé and the happy hum of conversation. This is only our third day in the Turks and Caicos Islands, but I feel right at home. I pause for a moment to take in my surroundings: one of the hotel’s pools sparkles below, ringed by lush greenery and towering palms that gently sway, revealing a glimpse of the crystal-clear ocean beyond.
On the terrace, the sea of happy faces around me, contented by good food and good company, perfectly encapsulates the jubilant spirit I’ve found is impossible to ignore in this corner of the Caribbean. What makes this day even more special is the fact our visit to Sailrock – a tucked-away resort on the island of South Caicos – coincides with my birthday. The occasion is marked with a surprise performance from a group of local school children, who joyfully deliver a rendition of Happy Birthday so moving my eyes threaten to spill over as the song concludes and a cake is brought over. The rest of the group watch on with glassy eyes and serene smiles, and I soak in the moment, knowing I’ll remember how lucky I feel for a very long time to come.
On the up
I’d be lying if I said lucky wasn’t something I felt during much of my time in Turks and Caicos. This is a destination that’s not just warm in its climate, but also in its people and nature, and it’s easy to see why the archipelago is so well-loved. This cluster of 40 islands has seen visitor numbers soar since reopening post-pandemic, and last year welcomed almost two million tourists to its shores in its best-ever year for tourism. Airlift to the destination from the UK, however, is changing, following Virgin Atlantic’s suspension of its direct service earlier this year. British Airways offers the next-best option, which involves a nine-hour flight to Nassau before the short hop onwards to Providenciales. This is Turks and Caicos’s most-populated island, affectionately known as Provo, home to powder-soft beaches, striking natural sites and lively bars and restaurants. Affluent travellers are well looked after here, thanks to an ever-growing bounty of luxury product. In Grace Bay, the region known for its breathtaking beach, visitors will find many of Provo’s high-end hotels. Joining the ranks later this year is Andaz Turks & Caicos at Grace Bay, which will mark the brand’s first foray into the Caribbean, while Kempinski Grace Bay is set to open its doors in 2027 on a quiet, undeveloped stretch of this famed shoreline. And they’ll be in good company: The Ritz-Carlton staked its claim in Grace Bay Beach back in 2021, rubbing shoulders with a number of properties owned by Provo-based luxury hotel brand Grace Bay Resorts, including Grace Bay Club and Point Grace, as well as the stylish 115-room Seven Stars Resort & Spa.
Elsewhere, Amanyara, which was Aman’s first Caribbean outpost when it opened its doors back in 2006, is nestled on the island’s west coast; Wymara Resort + Villas is a sleek spot situated a little farther along from the activity of Grace Bay Beach; and The Shore Club’s elegant villas and suites can be found in an exclusive enclave on Long Bay Beach. This three-mile stretch of sand on the island’s southeastern shoreline is also home to H2O Life Style Resort, a top choice for adrenaline junkies and watersports lovers, thanks to its kitted-out surf shop and prime beachfront position. From my seafront sunbathing spot atop the soft sands on H2O’s doorstep, I observe the hub of activity taking place in the shallows: an e-foiler tentatively starts climbing to their feet; a foamy ripple ricochets across the surface as a jetski begins racing towards the horizon, its driver and passenger squealing in delight; and a cluster of paddleboarders cheerfully bob through the waves.
Out at sea
I’m quite content on the beach, but at a resort so well-equipped for aquatic adventures, it would be rude not to venture beyond the shoreline, so I haul a paddleboard into the shallows and join the fun. The water beneath my board is an otherworldly shade of turquoise, glinting and glistening like a blanket of thousands of tiny diamonds. I feel completely at peace as I navigate the calm waves, the buzz of activity blurring into a happy thrum in the background as I soak in the idyllic beauty of my surroundings. As I gaze towards the horizon, something else demands my attention: a stationary cargo ship obscured by a blanket of rust, which has become somewhat of a must-see for visitors to Provo. I’ve never been one to pass up the opportunity to visit a landmark, no matter how tarnished, so I paddle back to shore and swap my board for a larger vessel: H2O’s speedboat, which whisks us to the shipwreck in minutes. Our captain kills the engine and we float alongside the ship as he tells the story of how La Famille Express was dragged from its anchor for more than 12 miles by the winds of hurricane Frances in 2004.
We plunge into the cool waters from our boat’s stern for a quick swim stop in the shadow of the ship, then climb back on board and head towards the shore. But before we’re back on dry land, there’s one more landmark we need to tick off: Captain Oak’s Tiki Bar. We clamber from the boat onto the floating wooden shack and are greeted by a small host of merrymakers perched at the bar and Captain Oak himself, who quickly rustles up rum-laced drinks to a lively soundtrack of reggae tunes. Admiring Provo from the water is a must for visitors, either during a trip to a floating bar or, if clients are keen to venture a little farther beyond the shoreline, from the comfort of a catamaran. We board Lady Grace – the luxury vessel that was christened alongside The Ritz-Carlton in Grace Bay – while the sun is still bathing us in its warmth, but we’re not sailing for long before the blue of the sky is replaced with balmy shades of pink and orange. As the sun gently dips below the horizon, we’re treated to free-flowing rum punches and fizzing flutes of champagne, which we enjoy alongside the beautiful passing scenery of Grace Bay. With a cocktail in hand, I contemplate another divine concoction: the outstanding natural beauty, high-octane activities and joyous spirit that combine to make Turks and Caicos special – a mixture I can’t seem to get enough of.
Island hopping
To fully experience the charm of Turks and Caicos, recommend clients pair Providenciales with one or more of the smaller surrounding islands. Travelling between the islets is easy, as we discover for ourselves when we take a day trip to South Caicos, a quiet island just a 30-minute flight from Provo. After a quick hop across some of the most incredible aquamarine waters, we discover the so-called Big South offers a peek into the Caribbean lifestyle of decades past, with fewer hotels, rugged landscapes peppered with roaming donkeys and clusters of flamingos, and plenty of tranquil beaches. Elsewhere in the archipelago, other populated islands include the capital and tourist-favourite Grand Turk, as well as North and Middle Caicos, the secluded isles known for their spectacular natural vistas. There are also a number of private islands home to their own luxury resorts, including Pine Cay Turks and Caicos, Como Parrot Cay and the recently opened Ambergris Cay.
Book it
Caribtours offers seven nights’ B&B in a Garden View Junior Suite at The Shore Club from £3,675 per person. The price includes flights, transfers and UK lounge access.
caribtours.co.uk