The high life: Sampling the slopes of Aspen

Take off

Originally a summer camping ground for Ute Indians, Aspen boomed as a silver-mining town from the 1870s. But the bust came two decades later, when the population shrank from 12,000 to just 1,000, ushering in ‘the quiet years’. That changed after the Second World War, when the ski industry started to surge, thanks to the vision of industrialist Walter Paepcke and his wife Elizabeth, and former Austrian ski champion Friedl Pfeifer.

In 1950 Aspen hosted the World Alpine Ski Championships, and its reputation for awesome winter sports took off. Nowadays Aspen Snowmass – to give the resort its full name; it also has two other mountains, Aspen Highlands and Buttermilk – has 336 ski trails and 46 lifts. Keen skiers will certainly want to be up early to get the most from their time on the slopes because a lift pass costs about £190 a day in peak season, although there can be reductions of up to 25% if you buy a four-day ticket at least 30 days in advance.

Aspen ranks number one in the US for rural airports in terms of private-jet take-offs and landings. There are also regular flights, with connections via Chicago, Dallas, San Francisco, Atlanta and Los Angeles. I flew in through Denver, enjoying views of the mountains as we descended through the dappled clouds. Unusually for a holiday in the US, I didn’t need a car, as there’s a decent range of transfer options and, once in town, Aspen itself is compact and walkable.

The glam and the good

My destination was Hotel Jerome, Auberge Collection, a handsome brick structure on East Main Street, which opened in the 1880s – making it practically Jurassic in American terms – and was one of the first buildings west of the Mississippi River to have full electric lighting. Of course, these days it’s thoroughly up to date – in summer its swimming pool is a welcome addition – but it retains all its original character, especially its central bar (the Living Room) with a roaring log fire that pulls in a lively crowd of ski bums and socialites well into the evening.

Celebrity journalist and novelist Hunter S Thompson once held court here while trying to run (unsuccessfully) for sheriff, and actors from the golden age of Hollywood such as Cary Grant and John Wayne popularised it as the place to escape the hustle and bustle of LA. Make time for dinner at the main restaurant, Prospect; I ate a delicious salad of local greens, pickled blueberries, a honey-lemon vinaigrette and bee pollen, followed by Colorado lamb loin with mint pesto. I enjoyed window shopping along Aspen’s streets, peering through the glass at Gucci, Prada, Dior, Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Burberry, Balenciaga and Moncler goods, but with my credit card staying firmly in my pocket.

It was also fun browsing in Kemo Sabe, the place to buy your cowboy hat and boots for that rustic gazillionaire look – Amazon boss Jeff Bezos popped in last December and Jennifer Lopez has also been seen inside. Hat prices start at about $350, but you could splash out $20,000. My main aim, though, was to ski – and I loved the wide-open slopes, swooshing down under sunny Rocky Mountain skies towards town, before climbing back on the ski lift. I stopped for lunch at Bonnie’s, perhaps the cutest spot on the pistes with a good array of burgers, hot dogs, sandwiches and pizza slices, and a welcoming sun deck.

After my day’s exertions, I joined the glam and the good at The Little Nell hotel’s Ajax Tavern, next to the Silver Queen Gondola, where I devoured a wagyu double cheeseburger and truffle fries on the patio. Heidi Klum, Britney Spears, Ed Sheeran and Victoria Beckham have all stayed in one of the property’s 92 rooms, many of which feature log gas fires, balconies offering mountain views, and beds with goose-down pillows and mattresses that have firmness control settings.

High-altitude indulgence

If clients are keen for something more low-key, suggest a stay at Aspen’s sister resort, Snowmass, a half-hour drive away. Snowmass, which was developed in the 1960s as a purpose-built resort, offers a more modern and functional atmosphere compared with Aspen’s historic, old-world charm. But it’s a great bet for those powder hounds whose main reason to be here is to ski or board the same great mountain range, while getting more bang for their winter sports buck. It’s more chilled, better value and has less of a ‘one percenter’ vibe.

My base here was the 254-room Viewline Resort Snowmass, Autograph Collection, which, while not ski-in ski-out, is very close to lifts. My room was spacious, and the hotel is home to a cosy bar, spa, ski storage room and Alpine Grill restaurant. There’s an outdoor pool for warmer days, and if you feel like it’s never last-minute enough to warm up those ski legs, there’s a fitness centre equipped with Peloton bikes. My day on the slopes here was fun and varied, with enough time to pause for a long lunch at Sam’s Restaurant near the Village Express lift, which has large picture windows and a delicious Italian‑inspired menu (I loved the pasta with beef ragu). So, if clients want to celebrate a milestone birthday or anniversary, Aspen is for them.

Brilliant skiing, old west charm, amazing service and tonnes of atmosphere. This is not just a winter getaway – it’s a destination that delivers on every promise of luxury. From the art galleries to the après-ski cocktails, Aspen offers a kind of immersive, high-altitude indulgence that makes the cost feel like part of the experience. You’re not just paying for powder snow and luxury lodges, you’re buying memories that last a lifetime. And what price can you put on that?

Book it: Rates at Hotel Jerome, Auberge Collection start at £1,730 per night for a double room on a B&B basis, and from £614 for one night room-only at Viewline Resort Snowmass, Autograph Collection – both during ski season.
auberge.com
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