We stand on the shore of Reggae Beach, the rhythmic beats of its namesake music drifting from speakers while sunbathers lounge in the soothing warmth of the late afternoon sun. The hum of conversation mingles with the crisp clink of cool Carib beers. Several people swim among the shallows, undeterred by the waves growing choppier with incoming boats. If anything signals that we’ve arrived in the Caribbean, it’s this blissful scene.
I’m in St Kitts, bound for its lesser-known sister isle Nevis, which lies a short boat-ride away across a two-mile channel. From the vessel, Nevis’s volcanic peak, crowned with a wisp of cloud, stands proudly over golden beaches and swaying palms. Along the coast, pastel-hued cottages and farmhouse-style homes peek through verdant foliage. With every passing wave, the pace of life seems to slow. As the locals frequently remind us during our stay: we’re on island time now.
Untouched Isle
From Princess Diana to Beyoncé, Nevis has long been a favourite hideaway among high-profile guests eager to escape the limelight and bask in complete privacy – and it’s easy to see why. Despite being home to the first hotel in the Caribbean – the historic Bath Hotel and Spring House, which opened in 1778 – the pace of development on Nevis has remained refreshingly unhurried. This tiny island is home to just 400 hotel rooms, but that is precisely its charm. With no high-rise resorts, cruise ship ports or bustling tourist traps, Nevis feels wonderfully low-key and effortlessly exclusive. It’s a little difficult to get to – British Airways flies to St Kitts twice a week with a stop in Antigua – but that only adds to its allure.
Nevis remains a hidden gem waiting to be discovered by discerning, in-the-know travellers. It’s easy to settle into the island’s slower pace, where tracking down your next rum punch is often the day’s biggest task, but there’s no shortage of ways to occupy visitors’ time. Mornings unfold leisurely, best spent lounging on a sun-dappled veranda while snacking on sweet, just-plucked mangoes.
Afternoons call for barefoot strolls along Pinney’s Beach, soaking up Nevis’s history with a guided tour or embarking on a scenic bike ride along the 20-mile road that encircles the island. The only traffic visitors are likely to encounter is a family of inquisitive green vervet monkeys crossing the road, while on the island’s pristine beaches, guests are more likely to share the sand with a nesting sea turtle than another tourist. In the evenings, an array of authentic, home-style restaurants awaits.
Each night brings a flurry of mouth-watering dishes, from Antillean conch gratin and a rich confit duck leg cassoulet at French and Caribbean fusion bistro L’Escale, to plates of fresh seafood such as smoked wahoo carpaccio and coconut shrimp curry at oceanside venue Drift. But it’s not just the dishes that make guests feel full; it’s being welcomed by locals like old friends and the rumbles of laughter as rum punches are generously poured and stories eagerly shared. Of all the Caribbean islands I’ve visited, I’ve never felt so wonderfully isolated, yet so surrounded by warm hospitality and such an inviting culture.
Beautiful boutiques
The island’s most coveted address – and likely the obvious choice for your clients – is Four Seasons Resort Nevis. More than three decades since its debut, the property remains the island’s only branded luxury resort. Most of the staff are local and many have been part of the team since its opening. While the resort is undeniably contemporary – think lavish restaurants, three sparkling pools and an expansive golf course – its design details nod to a more traditional Caribbean style. The 189 rooms and suites are housed in cottages with steep gabled roofs and decorated with vibrant tropical prints, while many of the 119 privately owned estates and villas feature antique mahogany furniture and eclectic artwork. But for guests who want to truly feel like they’re stepping into the Caribbean of a bygone era, the island’s collection of boutique, family-run properties should not be overlooked.
During our fam trip, we hop between hotels brimming with character, discovering charming retreats that offer a glimpse into Nevis’s rich heritage, with centuries-old architecture, locally inspired decor and heartfelt hospitality passed down through generations. On Nevis’s tranquil west coast, Paradise Beach – a member of Small Luxury Hotels of the World – offers 13 elegant villas ranging from two to four bedrooms. Each boasts a private pool, shaded cabana and outdoor barbecue for alfresco dining.
A personal chef is on hand to craft delicious dinners, while Beach Bar offers an idyllic setting for guests to savour fresh seafood with sand between their toes. For those seeking even greater seclusion, there are a few hidden gems perched on the verdant slopes of Mount Nevis. Montpelier – once frequented by Princess Diana – is built around an 18th-century sugar plantation and weaves its history into every detail.
Up a candlelit pathway, a circular stone mill has been transformed into an intimate restaurant for private dinners, while the repurposed cogs serve as striking artistic features throughout the hotel. The property has 18 rooms, including the two-bedroom Tamarind Villa, which features a terrace and plunge pool. There’s also Golden Rock Inn, which is owned by Helen and Brice Marden, two artists from New York who were so enchanted by Nevis when they holidayed here that they decided to stay. It makes sense then that the property is adorned with artwork, including photographic portraits of people from the community by local artist Kacey Jeffers. Winding, overgrown pathways lead to the hotel’s 11 suites, while the pool deck offers panoramic views across the horizon. On a clear day, guests may even spot neighbouring Montserrat and Antigua.
Elsewhere, The Hermitage proudly stands as the island’s oldest building, with many of the original 18th-century structures of the property’s 13 gingerbread-style cottages remaining. The stately 350-year-old Great House feels almost like a museum, bedecked with antiques and old photographs. For some clients, this hotel may feel a little dated, but owner Richie Lupinacci and his family – who moved to Nevis in the 1970s from Pennsylvania – are committed to maintaining the property’s traditional charm and honouring its storied past. Encourage clients to stay at a few different hotels to appreciate Nevis from every angle or, at least, plan a visit to one of these endearing boutique properties for a memorable evening.
Montpelier hosts a sunset beach barbecue every Thursday, while The Hermitage’s Wednesday night West Indian buffet is a favourite among locals and tourists. For something more intimate, reserve the private pergola at Golden Rock Inn’s The Rocks restaurant, where guests dine by candlelight, serenaded by a chorus of tree frogs. While my brief stay in Nevis leaves me longing for more, it’s been enough to understand its lasting allure. This is the kind of place where luxury whispers rather than shouts. It isn’t about extravagance, but the privilege of space, seclusion and the rare feeling of having stumbled upon a destination that remains truly undiscovered.
Julie Claxton, sales and marketing manager at the Nevis Tourism Authority, shares her favourite island experiences
“If tourists want to experience the island’s local culture, a great time of year to visit is the first week of July for our Mango Festival. We host a guided tour around local bars and restaurants where guests sample mango-based dishes and cocktails. There’s live music too which makes for a really fun atmosphere. There are also masterclasses with international chefs as well as a dinner experience where local culinary artists take over the kitchen at Golden Rock Inn.
On the final day, we welcome more than 50 chefs to create Mango-inspired menus and host a concert with Nevisian musicians. Last year, we had a turnout of 2,000 people. We also have our annual Cross Channel Swim, held in March, in which hundreds of people swim between St Kitts and Nevis. We’re looking to have around 1,000 participants next year. Throughout the year, travellers can arrange bespoke experiences such as catamaran cruises, private dinners and wellness retreats.”
Caribtours offers a seven-night twin-centre in Nevis from £2,975, including four nights’ room-only at Four Seasons Resort Nevis and three nights with breakfast at Golden Rock Inn. The price includes transfers, lounge access and British Airways flights from Gatwick, based on a November 11 departure.
caribtours.co.uk