Sea Dreams: Discovering the Caribbean’s most secluded isles by luxury yacht

Yacht life

If Martinique, in the French Caribbean, is a minnow on the cruise circuit, Le Marin, where we dropped anchor, is off the charts. This was sailing heaven as all around us swanky yachts and small boats swung at anchor as their owners tucked into the French cuisine being served in the bustling restaurants ashore. In Saint Lucia, instead of the busy cruise port in Castries, we went to Rodney Bay and were tendered to land, with the choice of heading to the long stretch of beach in front of the lively resorts on the mainland or to Pigeon Island (it’s called an island but was connected to Saint Lucia by a causeway in 1972). We opted for the latter to stay away from the crowds and hiked to Fort Rodney, built by the British in the late 1700s to spy on a French naval base in Martinique. It was a steep climb but we needed the exercise after all the exceptional food we’d been eating.

All meals on SeaDream I were cooked to order – with always a choice of meat, fish, vegetarian and vegan dishes for lunch and dinner – so they were served hot and adapted, if necessary, to suit individual tastes. One lunchtime they spiced up a Thai chicken soup for me and it was delicious. Breakfast and lunch were always served alfresco on the top deck. We would have had dinner there too except for the fact at around 5pm every day clouds gathered, the heavens opened, the crew sighed and tables were laid in the restaurant instead. As befits luxury yachting, life on board was gloriously casual, with no one telling us where to sit or what to eat. There was a small gym and space for massages and yoga on the sundeck, as well as a Top of the Yacht bar where we gathered for drinks and impromptu flair bartending demos. Luckily there was a small indoor bar for the evenings when the rain put a damper on the fun. In Rodney Bay, my husband borrowed a WaveRunner from the yacht’s rear marina and went shooting over the waves while others tested their sailing prowess in more sedate Hobie Cats. Water toys are free to use but sadly this was the only place the local authorities allowed the marina to open on this cruise.

Away from it all

Saint Lucia is a mere 27 miles long and 14 miles across at its widest point, but it is a giant compared to the Grenadines, an archipelago of small islands most people have probably never heard of (the exception is Mustique, where Princess Margaret holidayed and Mick Jagger has a house) – and our classy yacht seemed right at home. We were visiting four of the Grenadines, starting with Bequia, which has rolling hills, expensive villas and deserted sandy beaches. It’s the largest in the archipelago, yet not even twice the size of Heathrow.

SeaDream offered tours on most islands – these included a trip into the town of Soufrière in Saint Lucia and a helicopter ride over the island, both at an extra cost. However, most of us preferred to take things easy, spending a few hours on a beach here, joining a spur-of-the-moment hike there. In Bequia, while some fellow passengers went in search of celebrities on a full-day tour to Mustique, we joined an island excursion that twisted and turned through the narrow streets of the capital, Port Elizabeth; took us up Mount Pleasant for views over the island; and ended at the colourful Whaleboner Bar, which was a perfect place to relax with sea views and a cocktail or two. On Canouan, we found a beach bar and spent a happy couple of hours imbibing beers that cost a mere $1 each. Farther south on Union Island, we passed on a rainforest hike, preferring instead some beach time in the sun, cooling off in the calm sea and spotting the little planes landing in Canouan, just a few miles away.

A fitting finale

In Mayreau, we were back on the tour circuit, this time a snorkelling trip to nearby Tobago Cays Marine Park, a collection of sand spits and coral reefs we were assured were teeming with turtles. After 20 minutes in the water and no sign of any sea life – never mind turtles – I was cold, bored and ready to head back to the catamaran when, bingo! There below me were three turtles grazing on seaweed and oblivious to this strange creature floating above them, grinning and shouting as best as one can while wearing a snorkel and mask without drowning. And just when I thought things couldn’t get any better, one swam up to the surface, passing so close to me I could have reached out and touched it. Talk about lucky – especially as I was one of the only ones who spotted them.

The destinations we’d visited so far were lovely, but Mayreau was spectacular. Not only was the island gorgeous – home to fewer than 300 people and straight out of the brochures, with a long sandy beach, swaying palms and calm blue Caribbean Sea – we were about to enjoy a beach barbecue and SeaDream’s signature Champagne and Caviar Splash. I’d never really believed they did it but sure enough the chef and waiters strode into the water in full uniform and started pouring fizz and serving caviar to anyone who cared to join them, which of course was everyone on the cruise. After all, it would have been churlish not to. Bliss? I defy anyone to better that.  

Book it: SeaDream Yacht Club offers a seven-day Glorious Grenadines cruise round-trip from Barbados on SeaDream II departing November 23, from £4,093 including drinks, tips and port fees.

Cruise and stay

Sailing round trip from Bridgetown was ideal as there are multiple direct flights from the UK to Barbados (SeaDream’s other departure ports, including San Juan and St Thomas, require a change of aircraft). However, agents should advise an overnight on the island before the cruise in case of flight delays; better still, recommend three or four nights as it’s a shame to go all that way and miss exploring Barbados. Although small – just 21 miles long and 14 miles wide – Barbados has plenty to enjoy, from white-sand beaches to Harrison’s Cave (pictured), home to centuries-old stalactites and stalagmites, streams and waterfalls. There are history-themed walking tours in Bridgetown, tastings at Mount Gay rum distillery and round-island jeep tours that visit the wild east coast, where surfers pit their skills against powerful Atlantic waves. Those feeling active can sign up for e-bike tours along the coast or through the countryside, while at the Animal Flower Cave, steps lead into a cavern that’s home to sea anemones, crabs and interesting rock formations.