Peaks of perfection: Why Saint Lucia should be your clients’ next Caribbean escape
Are you ready?” hotel manager Peter Jean‑Paul asks, his hand resting on the handle of a gargantuan wooden door. In a manner that can only be compared to a gaggle of hyped‑up children, we nod fervently. At any other hotel, this level of unadulterated excitement at being shown to your room may seem a little over the top. But not here. Not at Jade Mountain. This Saint Lucian property demands a certain amount of anticipation – and for good reason.
Like a magician delivering his best trick, Peter turns the handle. A vast, paradisiacal grotto with shiny wooden floors and textured stone walls unfurls, furnished with a giant sunken bath, rainfall shower, four-poster bed with swishy white curtains and a pair of rattan sunloungers.
Strictly speaking, ‘room’ isn’t an accurate descriptor, because there’s one traditional element noticeably absent: the fourth wall. In its place sits an infinity pool lined with iridescent rose-hued tiles, beyond which shrouds of foliage tumble down to fringe the ocean. Instead of the rustic brickwork in which the three walls are decked out, behind the pool lies something much more enchanting – the jagged peaks of the island’s famed Pitons, rising from the shallows and standing proud against a clear blue sky.
Big dreams
Much like the rooms not technically being rooms (they’re known as ‘sanctuaries’ here), Jade Mountain itself doesn’t fall into the category of a standard hotel. The open-air tiers of this cornucopia-esque structure protrude from the hillside, seemingly defying gravity from their perch atop Morne Chastanet. From the beach below, the property could be mistaken for the most lavish spaceship you’ve ever seen but, up close, looks more like the realisation of someone’s wildest dreams about what a luxury hotel could be in the absence of any type of rule book. And actually, that isn’t a million miles away from the truth.
The late Russian-Canadian architect Nick Troubetzkoy first came to Saint Lucia in the 1970s with a vision to create something that would bring people closer than ever to the island’s abundant unbridled beauty, bridging the gap between architecture and nature. Three decades later in 2006, Jade Mountain opened its doors, serving not only as the fulfilment of this vision, but also as Nick’s love letter to the country that provides the backdrop to his career-defining creation, which would go on to become one of the most recognisable properties in the Caribbean.
Each room is accessed by its own long, suspended walkway and, from the bridge that leads to my Sun Sanctuary, everything just flows. The open-plan room feels neither inside nor outside, but a perfect concoction of the two, where all that lies between my bed, my infinity pool and the distant Pitons is the warm, honey-scented Caribbean air. When Karolin Troubetzkoy, Nick’s wife and Jade Mountain’s executive director, tells us it’s not unusual for guests to arrive at the property and not emerge until it’s time to check out, I’m not the least bit surprised. From the oasis of my room, everything I could possibly need is a call away (made via one of the resort’s walkie-talkie-style devices as telephones and TVs are a no-no here – who needs them with views like this, anyway?). That means 24/7 room service, in-room spa treatments and the assistance of my own personal butler (or major-domo, as they are known at the hotel) to fulfil all manner of crazy whims (the wildest request I make is for a pre-bedtime snack of gooey chocolate-chip cookies) are all readily accessible.
Unique offering
However, rest assured Jade Mountain’s appeal spans far beyond just its infinity pools, so guests who do manage to drag themselves away from their sanctuaries won’t be disappointed. Effortlessly living up to its name, the Celestial Terrace occupies the most ethereal of spots at the crown of the resort and, beneath the winking and blinking lights of the Milky Way, provides the dreamiest setting to sip on a glass of Veuve Clicquot. One floor down is all-day dining venue Jade Mountain Club, serving a constantly changing menu centred around fresh local ingredients, as well as speciality cocktails crafted by the ever-enthusiastic team of expert bartenders.
For further dining choices, guests simply need to venture down the hill on foot or via resort shuttle to sister property Anse Chastanet, which was Nick’s first outpost in Saint Lucia. He bought the resort in 1974, 32 years before its sibling opened – but nods to the dream that would eventually be realised through Jade Mountain can be found in every corner of this Saint Lucian grande dame. Its 49 rooms cascade gracefully down the hillside, some with completely open walls, others with quirky features (my personal favourite is constructed around an unharmed red gommier tree), but what they all have in common is unobstructed views of the surrounding scenery.
At the foot of Anse Chastanet sits the Treehouse Restaurant, suspended among a canopy of foliage, beyond which lies a set of steps leading down to one of the estate’s two beaches. The sugar-soft stretch of sand acts as the jumping-off point for the majority of activities available to guests at Anse Chastanet and Jade Mountain, including snorkelling among the medley of tropical crustaceans that frequent the house reef just metres from the shore, unwinding with a hot stone massage in the spa or getting creative at one of the twice-weekly art classes hosted by local muralist Naja Simeon.
Back to nature
For a pair of hotels so famously lavish, you’d be forgiven for expecting an air of stuffiness at Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet. The reality, however, is quite the opposite. During my stay, I’m struck by the down-to-earth, polished but not pretentious version of luxury the resorts have perfected. Every member of the team treats us with genuine warmth, and their eagerness to showcase the beauty of not just the hotels, but Saint Lucia as a whole, is impossible to overlook.
One afternoon, we take a five-minute boat ride to the next bay and Anse Chastanet’s second beach, Anse Mamin. Here, we explore an abandoned plantation and 18th-century ruins under the expert guidance of longstanding member of staff and local flora and fauna oracle Paul ‘Meno’ Herman or, as he’s better known at the resort, Father Nature. Wandering through the jungle, he tells us about the different plants and their medicinal uses, but also of the tangible care Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet take to protect their surroundings, a sentiment that is woven into everything the sister properties do.
We learn more about their green credentials on a visit to Emerald Farm, the estate hidden in the hills of nearby Soufrière town that provides almost half of the produce consumed by guests. After a tour, we settle down for the most literal version of farm-to-table dining I’ve ever experienced, where Jade Mountain’s culinary mastermind Elijah Jules whips up plates of caprese salad and guacamole-topped plantain in an open-air kitchen surrounded by a bounty of flourishing crops.
As we feast, Elijah speaks about what’s made him stay in the role he’s had for nearly two decades – the freedom to craft imaginative menus is, of course, a huge draw, but he also credits the opportunities he has to mentor budding culinary talent and the family feel Karolin fosters among her team.
The icing on the cake is that, as guests, we also feel instantly part of that family. My stay at Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet is filled not only with time to relax and indulge, but also to learn – about the stories behind the warm-natured people I’m lucky enough to meet, the beauty in doing things differently and how the best luxury hotels aren’t just about style, but substance too.
Book it: Audley Travel offers an eight-night trip to Saint Lucia from £6,125 per person, including five nights’ all inclusive at Anse Chastanet and three nights’ all-inclusive at Jade Mountain. The price includes return flights from Gatwick, fast-track arrival service, meet-and-greet airport service and transfers.
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Location low-down
Set on the east coast of the island, Jade Mountain and Anse Chastanet are a one-hour drive from Saint Lucia’s Hewanorra International Airport. It’s worth noting that, while much of the journey is painless, the final 20 minutes are on steep, rough roads, which can make for a bumpy ride – but means arriving at the properties is that little bit sweeter, and you truly feel like you’re hidden away from the rest of the island. Alternatively, guests can make the six minute helicopter hop to Jade Mountain’s helipad, which we’re told 40% of guests make use of.
To reach the island from the UK, the most convenient flight option is the daily, non-stop British Airways service from Gatwick, which takes about nine hours. For your clients’ return journey, recommend booking the Iyanola Executive Lounge at Hewanorra – although not super plush, it provides a comfortable, quiet space to relax away from the main terminal.
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