The crash of the tide against the rocks mingles with the lilting melody of a mariachi violin, beckoning us. Palm trees dance against a cotton candy-hued sky, while rainbow-coloured papel picado flags – twinkling lights strung between them – flutter in the breeze. “You haven’t seen anything yet,” says a waitress with a wink.
As I descend the narrow stone steps, I’m greeted by women resplendent in traditional Mexican dresses, their skirts embroidered with intricate beadwork and their headdresses a riot of bright blooms, while servers glide past with perfectly tart, salt-rimmed margaritas.
The air is fragrant with smoky-sweet aromas wafting from food carts overflowing with a feast of just-pressed tacos filled with tender slow-cooked pork and chipotle chicken, nachos topped with fresh guacamole and zesty salsa, and golden churros warm from the fryer.
It’s everything I imagined when I pictured Mexican hospitality: vibrant, lively and bountiful. And paired with One&Only Palmilla’s impeccable service and thoughtful details, it’s utter magic The evening unfolds in a flurry of loaded plates, clinking glasses and laughter. The showstopper comes in the form of a mariachi band, serenading us with traditional songs, the tunes from their accordions and guitars weaving through the mild night air. It’s a heady, contented start to a trip that promises a delicious fusion of five-star indulgence and a true taste of Mexico’s culture and cuisine.
Nestled on the southernmost tip of Mexico’s sun-drenched Baja California peninsula, Los Cabos has long been well acquainted with the rich and famous, thanks to a string of glossy, high-end resorts dotted along the pristine 20-mile coastline between Cabo San Lucas and San José del Cabo. Almost every luxury hotel brand has set up shop here, so alongside golden beaches, secluded palm-lined coves and picturesque cliffside vistas, privacy and discretion are guaranteed.
During our time in Los Cabos, we scope out a range of hotels, including Auberge Collection properties Chileno Bay Resort & Residences (see box) – our home during the trip – and Esperanza, which features 53 casitas and suites as well as 100 villas with up to four bedrooms, tucked on Cabo’s Punta Ballena coast. Clients might also enjoy sister resorts Grand Velas Boutique and Grand Velas, the latter boasting the only Michelin-starred restaurant in Los Cabos, Cocina de Autor, where we are treated to a decadent five-course tasting menu.
For something a little different, Acre Resort is an oasis of palm trees and cacti among the rolling hills of Animas Bajas, housing a collection of treehouse suites alongside more-spacious haciendas and villas. In Cabo San Lucas, Montage Los Cabos is another standout, with gloriously spacious accommodation (many with private pools), a decadent spa and a prime swimmable beach. Farther up the coast, One&Only Palmilla, one of the region’s original grandes dames, feels steeped in history yet thoroughly modern, with vast suites that open onto the Sea of Cortez and experiences that are an ode to Mexican culture.
There are more developments on the horizon too. Aman Resorts and Raffles Hotels & Resorts have chosen the East Cape of Baja California for upcoming properties – Amanvari and Raffles Estera East Cape will open in 2026 and 2029 respectively – while Kerzner International will launch a Los Cabos outpost of its fitness-focused brand Siro in 2027.
Just a 90-minute hop from Los Angeles, it’s no surprise the destination has become a playground for America’s elite. For Brits, however, it’s a 15-hour-plus trip. With no direct flights, the smoothest commercial route is from Heathrow via Mexico City with Aeromexico – or, of course, there’s private jet, by which Los Cabos welcomed 7,000 tourists in June 2025 alone. However Brits choose to touchdown on this sun-soaked peninsula, those who make the journey will be abundantly rewarded.
Within minutes of checking into Chileno Bay Resort & Residences, I’m convinced the effort is worth it. My room is minimalist yet warm, clad in ocean hues, patterned tiles and pops of colourful artwork. A terrace overlooks a glistening pool and the Sea of Cortez beyond, fringed by plush loungers and shaded cabanas. In the afternoons, the ring of a bell signals the arrival of floating bartenders to serve chilled margaritas while guests bob in the balmy waters. It’s a tough call between whether I’d rather sup the tipple here or on the oceanfront terrace at dining venue Comal as the sun dips below the horizon.
If Cabo San Lucas is renowned for its hedonistic nightlife and party-fuelled energy, San José del Cabo is its artistic, bohemian sibling.
Cobblestone streets are strung with colourful flags, sun-washed facades are splashed with vibrant murals and shaded alleyways conceal boutiques brimming with crafts. The main square hums with music and chatter, overlooked by the whitewashed spires of Mission San José church. Every Thursday evening between November and June, the town comes alive for its celebrated Art Walk, where visitors drift between galleries, pausing for a glass of wine at one of the many restaurants and bars.
Tonight, however, our brush with Mexican culture comes not on a canvas but in a glass, when we visit La Silvestre Mezcalería to learn about the heritage of mezcal, a drink of ritual, celebration and community, with roots dating back thousands of years – so much so that Mexico’s agave landscapes in Jalisco have been recognised as a Unesco World Heritage Site. Our host Cheyenne recounts the legend of Mayahuel, the Aztec goddess of agave whose star-crossed love gave rise to the plant that would become mezcal. After the haunting tale, we chant a chorus of dixeebe – a Zapotec word that expresses gratitude and respect – and Cheyenne pours drops of the spirit on the ground as an offering to Mother Nature.
Our final stop of the evening takes us to local restaurant Los Tres Gallos, where we dine at long tables, passing plates of smoky cochinita pibil (pork marinated in annatto, orange and chillies) enchiladas and stuffed peppers oozing with stringy menonita cheese. It’s the perfect evening savouring not just the flavours of Mexico, but its very soul.
With a coastline so dazzling, it would be remiss not to see it up close, so on our penultimate morning, we board a sleek private yacht to glide past sea lions basking on sun-warmed piers and skim across the waves towards El Arco, the sea‑carved arch where the Pacific Ocean meets the Sea of Cortez – and where, from December to April, migrating whales can be spotted breaching through the surf.
After an afternoon soaking up the Baja sun at Chileno Bay, we dress in our finest and head to Esperanza. The setting takes my breath away. A wide stone terrace overlooks a crescent-shaped beach, a firepit glowing at its centre as the sky melts into shades of dusky pink and molten orange. We drink in the view before descending to Cocina del Mar’s dining terraces, which cascade down the cliffside, dotted with lantern-lit tables.
As the first stars appear, we reflect on a destination where luxury and authenticity coexist effortlessly and toast to a trip that has been extravagant and soulful in equal measure.
Carrier offers seven nights in a Garden View Room at Chileno Bay Resort & Residences, Auberge Collection for £4,400, departing June 6, 2026. The price includes return flights from Heathrow via Mexico City with Aeromexico and private airport transfers.
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Chileno Bay Resort & Residences is undeniably chic, with sandstone architecture, winding pathways and towering cacti. The property houses 95 rooms, four suites and 61 villas that range in size from two-bedroom options, complete with a pool or hot tub, to the expansive six-bedroom Brisa Del Mar. Here, guests can enjoy a large pool, private beach access and personal butler, chef and mixologist services.
There are three dining venues: Comal, which serves traditional yet elevated Mexican dishes; Yaya, a bohemian poolside eatery made for leisurely lunches; and TnT, a taco and tequila bar to linger at between dips. For a nightcap, head to The Bar Downstairs, which hosts live DJ sets from Thursday to Saturday.
The resort’s spa offers hydrothermal pools, a pink Himalayan salt room and daily classes such as yoga and meditation. Younger guests are well-catered for too, with the Pescaditos Kids Club for children up to 11 and the Escondite Teens Club for those aged 12 to 17. Faultless service, impeccable design and a laid-back yet polished atmosphere further set Chileno Bay apart.