Dutch delights: A river sojourn through the Netherlands
I follow the repetitive clunk of our guide’s wooden clogs as I clamber up the narrow stairs of the 18th‑century windmill. Mark lives in one of the neighbouring historic windmills in the Dutch village of Kinderdijk and is sporting the footwear – which I previously assumed was consigned to photo ops and gift shops – without a hint of irony while sharing what life is like in one of these charming landmarks.
As I gaze out from the top, I imagine the stormy skies and unrelenting gusts of wind we’ve been unlucky enough to encounter giving way to never-ending blue stretching above the waterways, a picture-perfect tableau of quaint mills mirrored in the glassy surface. All you would need is a smattering of tulips to paint an idyllic Dutch postcard.
My weather hopes aren’t quite realised, but it’s still an interesting immersion into this Unesco World Heritage Site, where 19 windmills – built between 1738 and 1740 to pump water out of nearby low-lying land – form the largest concentration of old windmills in the Netherlands.
I’m being treated to a whistle-stop river cruise – my very first – around the country on board AmaWaterways’ AmaSerena, and can already see how the line’s excursions introduce cultures and attractions with ease. Following a windswept stroll and scenic boat journey in Kinderdijk, our coach passes guide Erica’s elderly parents, waving cheerily from their living room window – a friendly touch that epitomises AmaWaterways’ heart.
City sights
Fans of architecture will appreciate the scenes in nearby Rotterdam. Frequently cited as the most multicultural Dutch city, with 176 nationalities calling it home, Rotterdam’s melting-pot feel extends to its design. The city was devastated during the Second World War with 95% of buildings flattened, giving rise to a mélange of surviving Victorian facades, bold brutalism and super-modern high-rises. Our tour points to the historical gems that remain: Europe’s first ‘skyscraper’, the White House; the huge post office scarred with bullet holes; and St Lawrence Church, which was painstakingly rebuilt with its original medieval stone following wartime decimation.
Farther north, the town of Zaandam is resplendent with history hidden in plain sight, such as Claude Monet’s Blue House where the painter captured the country’s picturesque windmill vistas. The most transfixing stories, however, are the unexpected anecdotes shared by AmaWaterways’ guides. My jaw drops when, standing in one of the city’s scenic squares, Zaandam native and local guide Saskya points out the house where her grandparents hid a Jewish family from the Nazis during the war.
Creature comforts
Stepping out of the bracing conditions into the haven of AmaSerena is a welcome end to each day. Like the rest of AmaWaterways’ fleet, the vessel has been updated to reflect the line’s new colour scheme following a recent rebrand, the deep russet hues imbuing a warm yet sophisticated tone. This warmth extends to the whole crew, who could not be more attentive during my sailing.
The surrounding landscapes are front and centre wherever you are on the ship, from the daylight-flooded Lark Lounge to the water-level Journeys Restaurant where I enjoy relaxed meals with a newly expanded wine list. As the main eatery falls just short of fine dining, more-elevated cuisine is served at the intimate Chef’s Table, where guests can sample a seven-course tasting menu for no extra fee, once per week on every sailing. Leisurely sipping the thoughtfully selected wine pairing while overlooking Rotterdam’s illuminated Erasmus Bridge is one of my journey’s most idyllic moments.
But perhaps the best place on board to appreciate the riverside setting is the top-deck heated pool. In warmer climes, outdoor yoga and dance sessions would be blissful overlooking the dappled water.
My favourite spot is the balcony of my spacious suite after dark, where I enjoy a glass of bubbly (delivered by lovely butler Lavinia) wrapped in a blanket, contentedly watching as we glide past glowing churches, townhouses and windmills. The charms of the Netherlands are on full display from the river – and there’s nowhere else I would rather be.
Book it: A seven-night AmaWaterways Tulip Time river cruise through the Netherlands and Belgium, staying in a suite on board AmaSerena, starts from £6,238 per person, including flights.
AMAWATERWAYS.COM
Image credits: Shutterstock/Bogdan F. Barabas, Valeria Venezia.
Jacobs Media is a company registered in England and Wales, company number 08713328. 3rd Floor, 52 Grosvenor Gardens, London SW1W 0AU.
© 2025 Jacobs Media
