Aromatic adventure: Why Italy’s Amalfi Coast is a feast for the senses
The scents are bewitching as we amble along the cobblestone streets of Positano – a place so divine it comes with an equally elegant fragrance. Bougainvillea drapes around us and the air is perfumed by wafts of bergamot, jasmine and neroli, perfectly punctuating the zesty scent of the fresh oranges and lemons that grow here in abundance. With every step towards the harbour, sea salt joins the fragrant medley, providing another layer of delight. Positano truly is a feast for the senses.
The Amalfi Coast certainly isn’t short of beauty spots. Dotted along the rugged shoreline is an array of colourful towns and villages that cascade dramatically down the cliffs towards the Tyrrhenian Sea. These quaint retreats are patched together by pretty coves and tiny beaches, olive and lemon groves, vineyards and coastal roads that afford travellers the ultimate scenic road trip.
From the elevated mountaintop town of Ravello to the hotspots of Sorrento and Amalfi, the options are endless. Positano is, in my opinion, the Amalfi Coast’s pièce de résistance. It’s a heavenly locale that combines all of life’s finest things – unrivalled scenery, divine culinary options and high-end shops.
The luxury hotel scene here is impeccable, but the offering is limited due to the physical restrictions of building in a town like Positano. The best in class are Il San Pietro di Positano and Le Sirenuse – the former seemingly carved into the cliffside and boasting a private beach club accessible by a lift; the latter offering old world charm and an exceptional dining experience.
But Positano’s villa scene is truly extraordinary. In fact, the private homes available throughout the Amalfi Coast are something to behold – special retreats that offer complete privacy and all the high-end amenities that luxury clients expect.
Picture-perfect property
I’m staying at Villa Sogno di Positano (known locally as Villa Eden Positano), a five-bedroom, five bathroom residence with spectacular views over the Tyrrhenian and the pastel-hued houses clinging to the cliffside.
So perfect is the property, it’s already booked out for the entire 2026 season, although it’s on CV Villas’ roster of stunning Italian homes for 2027.
Set in one of the town’s most scenic enclaves, Chiesa Nuova, and located high up on the hill, Villa Sogno di Positano is a restored building that dates back to the 1800s and even features original majolica tiles.
The five double bedrooms are spread across three floors, with a spacious master suite sandwiched in the middle, complete with its own living space, private terrace and gigantic Roman bath-style tub. We while away countless hours on the large terrace, surrounded by citrus trees, which provide the perfect slices for our nightly cocktails. It’s utter joy watching my kids and their cousins frolic around in the heated infinity pool (which is one depth and therefore perfect for youngsters).
Local knowledge
Relaxation is the name of the game here, and days begin with breakfast being prepared by villa staff, allowing guests to wake without a care in the world.
The team cleans the villa daily and are on hand to make restaurant reservations and advise on local activities.
We make use of our villa contact, Maria Francese, who helps us with day trip suggestions and transfer details. I return from Italy with calves of steel thanks to our daily strolls into the centre of Positano, which involve an almost vertical descent and a very tough climb back to the villa. The destination is tricky to navigate if you’re not feeling 100% fit, as it involves quite a strenuous walk; however, the Interno Positano bus operates regularly to connect the upper parts of the town with the centre, dropping passengers off at Piazza dei Mulini. It costs a couple of euros, whereas a single six-minute taxi ride could cost as much as €50 thanks to a captive audience of weary visitors reluctant to trudge up the hill.
The pedestrian-only central streets of Positano are a joy, despite heaving with tourists, many of whom are day trippers arriving by ferry or cruise ship. Shops selling citrus-themed household goods, linen clothing and jewellery line the route down to the harbour and Spiaggia Grande main beach. Those wanting to avoid the crowds should try Fornillo Beach, a 10-minute walk away.
Culinary fans will enjoy the town’s vast array of restaurants, many of which offer a complimentary shuttle service for villa guests. We’re picked up with ease on multiple occasions, heading up the mountain to the tiny village of Montepertuso for dinner at Il Ritrovo, and to rooftop venue Adamo ed Eva, which serves exquisite food and even better sunset vistas.
On our final day in Positano, after stocking up on limoncello and olive oils, we embark on the grand walk back to our home from home. We follow the delicious wafts of lemon and orange all the way back, ending up on our citrus tree-filled terrace, in time for our evening Aperol hour. My sense of smell has never been so tantalised.
Book it: CV Villas offers a week at Villa Sogno di Positano from £19,500 based on an April 2027 departure. The price includes daily maid service, concierge and shuttle service to Casola family restaurants, of which Adamo ed Eva is one.
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The Italian job
CV Villas managing director Pete Brudenell shares his top picks from the specialist’s Italian collection:
VILLA SAN GIACOMO, POSITANO
One of my favourite properties for a landmark celebration – the combination of spectacular terraces, iconic Positano views and beautifully luxurious bedrooms creates an atmosphere that feels both glamorous and deeply authentic to the Amalfi Coast.
IL POZZO, TUSCANY
I love the balance this estate offers: 29 acres of gardens, sweeping views across Pienza, effortless access to Montalcino’s vineyards and exceptional facilities that genuinely work for every generation.
TENUTA DI SAN GIORGIO, SICILY
This villa stands out for its sense of privacy and character; set within a citrus farm, it combines an extraordinary art collection with exceptional cuisine and thoughtful touches such as a home cinema.
TRULLI DEL PARCO, PUGLIA
A favourite for multigenerational gatherings or groups of friends, thanks to its beautifully restored trulli, generous outdoor living spaces, infinity-edge pool and indulgent hydromassage area.
BEACH RETREAT, SARDINIA
What makes this property so special is its rare sense of seclusion; tucked into the coastal hills of southwest Sardinia, it offers stunning mountain views yet is just a short cycle ride from Portixeddu beach.
Image credits: Shutterstock/Boris-B; Unsplash/Volha Hysheuskaya, Jordan Steranka; Sarah Lucy Brown
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