Adriatic jewel: Why Montenegro is deservedly having its moment in the spotlight

At first glance, the entrance to the Church of Our Lady of Angels may seem unassuming, but as we descend the narrow stone steps and emerge into a serene, hidden courtyard, the landscape is anything but. Before us stretches a sparkling expanse of calm waters framed by the jagged peaks of the Dinaric Alps. Nestled between Tivat and Kotor, this tranquil enclave feels like a well-kept secret, known only to a fortunate few, even among locals.

It’s an idyllic spot to gaze across the Bay of Kotor – locally known as Boka Bay – towards one of Montenegro’s more frequented sites, Our Lady of the Rocks. Here, a solitary church is perched atop a man-made island in the midst of the sea, its cerulean cupola mirroring the hue of the still waters. We sip on glasses of champagne as our guide, Nataša Velimirovic, recounts the island’s history, which dates back to the 15th century.

“The legend tells of two fishermen, brothers from Perast, who were lost at sea in dense fog until they miraculously found a painting attached to a rock in the bay, radiating divine light, which guided them safely back home. However, during the night, the painting returned to the middle of the sea, sending the message that it was meant to remain there to help all stranded seafarers find the light to take them home.”

Honouring this sign, the people of Perast embarked on a centuries-long endeavour to build an island with a church to house the sacred artwork of the Virgin Mary and Child. For more than 200 years, they cast stones into the bay and sank old ships until the island emerged from the depths of the sea. Even today, this tradition endures: every July 22 at sunset, locals sail to the island to throw rocks into the water during the ceremonial fašinada, commemorating the fishermen’s discovery and ensuring the island stands strong for centuries to come.

Inside the church, visitors can admire the revered icon, painted by Kotor artist Lovro Marinov Dobričevic, as well as centuries’ worth of offerings gifted by seamen to thank the Virgin Mary for their safe passage.

As the golden hues of the mid-morning sun bounce off the bay’s surface, I can’t help but think that one could easily get lost, like the brothers, in Montenegro’s magic.