Adriatic jewel: Why Montenegro is deservedly having its moment in the spotlight
The development of high-end hotspots is making the region a magnet for the affluent
At first glance, the entrance to the Church of Our Lady of Angels may seem unassuming, but as we descend the narrow stone steps and emerge into a serene, hidden courtyard, the landscape is anything but. Before us stretches a sparkling expanse of calm waters framed by the jagged peaks of the Dinaric Alps. Nestled between Tivat and Kotor, this tranquil enclave feels like a well-kept secret, known only to a fortunate few, even among locals.
It’s an idyllic spot to gaze across the Bay of Kotor – locally known as Boka Bay – towards one of Montenegro’s more frequented sites, Our Lady of the Rocks. Here, a solitary church is perched atop a man-made island in the midst of the sea, its cerulean cupola mirroring the hue of the still waters. We sip on glasses of champagne as our guide, Nataša Velimirovic, recounts the island’s history, which dates back to the 15th century.
“The legend tells of two fishermen, brothers from Perast, who were lost at sea in dense fog until they miraculously found a painting attached to a rock in the bay, radiating divine light, which guided them safely back home. However, during the night, the painting returned to the middle of the sea, sending the message that it was meant to remain there to help all stranded seafarers find the light to take them home.”
Honouring this sign, the people of Perast embarked on a centuries-long endeavour to build an island with a church to house the sacred artwork of the Virgin Mary and Child. For more than 200 years, they cast stones into the bay and sank old ships until the island emerged from the depths of the sea. Even today, this tradition endures: every July 22 at sunset, locals sail to the island to throw rocks into the water during the ceremonial fašinada, commemorating the fishermen’s discovery and ensuring the island stands strong for centuries to come.
Inside the church, visitors can admire the revered icon, painted by Kotor artist Lovro Marinov Dobričevic, as well as centuries’ worth of offerings gifted by seamen to thank the Virgin Mary for their safe passage.
As the golden hues of the mid-morning sun bounce off the bay’s surface, I can’t help but think that one could easily get lost, like the brothers, in Montenegro’s magic.
High-end hotspots
This enchanting islet is just one highlight on our whirlwind tour of Boka Bay, whose Unesco World Heritage status attests to its beguiling natural beauty and cultural richness. Ringed by imposing mountains, the region is a mosaic of medieval towns with cobbled streets, historic architecture and luxury hotels that have become iconic landmarks in their own right.
We explore by sea, foot and a trusty tuk-tuk, admiring the breathtaking vistas that are enticing tourists to shift their gaze from Croatia to its once-overlooked neighbour. From the jetty of One&Only Portonovi – our home for the three-night trip – we climb aboard speedboats emblazoned with the brand’s logo and zip past spectacular scenery at every turn. Wispy clouds sit like halos atop pine-covered mountains cascading down to clear waters, clusters of terracotta-roofed villages cling to the shoreline and ancient fortresses stand sentinel on rocky outcrops. I’d heard about the majesty of Montenegro’s mountainscapes – often dubbed the Adriatic fjords – but up close and unfiltered is the only way to truly appreciate their beauty.
This small Balkan country is undoubtedly having its moment in the spotlight – and deservedly so. In 2023, visitor numbers soared past 2.6 million, marking a 50% increase from the previous year. The destination’s work to improve airlift from the UK is paying off, too. With four airlines offering flights from London, Birmingham, Bristol and Manchester – as well as British Airways reportedly eyeing an additional route – UK visitor numbers are on the rise. In the first eight months of 2024, 80,000 Brits travelled to the destination, compared with 89,000 for the whole of 2023.
However, increased popularity poses the challenge of overtourism, with towns such as Kotor having grappled with overcrowding during peak months last year. Fortunately, Montenegro’s mild year-round climate makes it an appealing off-season destination, so recommend your clients visit in May or September.
For the luxury market, the country’s offering has never been better. Montenegro is fast becoming a magnet for the affluent, thanks to the ongoing development of three marinas on the outskirts of Boka Bay: Porto Montenegro, Portonovi and Luštica Bay. Here, the gleaming hulls of lavish superyachts line palm-fringed promenades, designer boutiques rub shoulders with Michelin-starred restaurants and chic beach bars, and the region’s small yet prestigious luxury hotel roster has taken residence, providing the perfect setting for your client’s getaway.
One&Only Portonovi, the brand’s first property in Europe, opened in 2021 and has since become a standout on the country’s luxury hotel scene – and the centrepiece of the Portonovi development. Across the bay in Tivat, Porto Montenegro boasts a well-regarded Regent, which opened its doors as the first five-star hotel in Boka Bay back in 2014. This spring, Porto Montenegro will be further elevated with the opening of Siro Boka Place, the second property under Kerzner International’s new fitness-focused brand. Elsewhere, The Chedi Luštica Bay is the first hotel in a billion-euro project on the Luštica Peninsula that is set to welcome an array of new hotels, some 300 villas and a golf course.
Old town charm
While Montenegro’s burgeoning reputation as a luxury destination makes a compelling case for your client’s next European escape, it’s the region’s historically rich and architecturally beautiful towns that truly steal the spotlight.
During our tour, we wander through the dizzying, labyrinthine streets of Kotor’s Unesco-listed old town, discovering trinket-laden boutiques, cosy wine bars and bustling squares at every corner. The city’s landmarks are steeped in history, from the majestic St Tryphon’s Cathedral, a masterpiece of 12th-century Romanesque architecture, to the ancient, fortified walls that have surrounded the city since the ninth century. Visitors can embark on the steep hike along the walls up to the San Giovanni fortress, rewarded with sweeping views of Boka Bay, or take a scenic ride on the Kotor-Lovćen Cable Car watching the landscape unfold as it climbs 1,300 metres to the dramatic peaks of Lovćen National Park.
A short drive away, the picturesque village of Perast offers a window into Montenegro’s Venetian past, its legacy reflected in the 16 beautifully preserved baroque palaces scattered throughout its quiet stone streets. Once a powerful maritime hub, Perast’s waterfront is lined with the grand homes of sea captains, creating a blissful backdrop for enjoying a crisp glass of local wine while gazing across the bay at Our Lady of the Rocks, just a five-minute ferry ride away.
On our final afternoon, we visit Castel Savina, a family-run winery perched high on a verdant hilltop in Herceg Novi. Amid two hectares of sun-drenched vineyards, we savour silky chardonnays and robust reds as the sun settles slowly behind the peaks, leaving cotton candy-tinged clouds in its wake. Once again, we’re awed by the landscape and asking ourselves: why haven’t we been here sooner? It’s a question your clients will undoubtedly ask too as they uncover the charms of Montenegro – a destination that one could return to time and time again and always discover something new.
Review – One & Only Portonovi
Set on Boka Bay’s rippling coastline and fronted s by the resort’s own man-made beach, One&Only Portonovi offers a perfect blend of glamour and tranquillity. The resort houses 113 rooms and suites that are gloriously spacious, with bathrooms as large as the bedrooms. Grand arched windows, towering stone pillars and terracotta rooftops pay homage to Boka Bay’s Venetian heritage, which adds a timeless charm to the resort’s otherwise extremely modern aesthetic. Guests won’t be disappointed with the choice of dining venues. Waterfront restaurant Tapasake – from ex-Nobu chef Yannick Bayjoo – is a standout, with a rooftop terrace and DJ for livelier evenings. Serving tapas-style Japanese-Peruvian dishes, menu highlights include pomegranate miso black cod and a selection of sushi. For local delicacies, all-day venue La Veranda offers relaxed buffet and à la carte dining, while Sabia serves Italian fare, with a live pasta-making station and show kitchen. For guests who want to explore in style, the resort’s experiences include boat tours to secret harbours and guided hikes of the stunning surrounding mountains.
Book it: An entry-level room at One&Only Portonovi leads in at €480 in low season and €1,905 in peak season.
oneandonlyresorts.com
Book it: Pure Luxury offers seven nights at One&Only Portonovi for £5,519 per person, departing June 15. Price is based on two adults sharing a Panoramic Room Bay View and includes flights and private transfers.
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